According to data from people.cn, Chinese hanfu consumers surpassed 2 million in 2018, tripling the level of 2017. A recent report from Guangzhou-based consultancy iiMedia Research estimated that by 2021, China’s hanfu fans will reach 6.89 million, and the hanfu sales volume will total 10.16 billion yuan ($1.58 billion).
Currently, there were more than 3,000 registered hanfu-related enterprises in China, among which over 60 percent were registered in the past five years, data from business information provider Tianyancha showed.
Guangzhou-based bespoke hanfu manufacturer, Minghuatang, is known as the “Hermes of hanfu.” Data from Minghuatang’s official website on May 17 showed that the customer service is busy handling orders submitted on May 11, and the tailoring period has been scheduled to mid-March 2022.
Apart from high-end markets, inexpensive hanfu are also popular. Data from Alibaba’s Taobao platform showed that hanfu that are priced between 100 yuan and 300 yuan took up over 60 percent of sales, while those over 500 yuan accounted for roughly 30 percent of sales.
2019年6月9日,少儿在西安关中书院展示汉服 图源:CFP
汉服为什么爆火
艾媒咨询CEO兼首席分析师张毅认为,汉服的火爆和年轻人分不开。
Zhang Yi, chief analyst at iiMedia Research, said during an interview with online fashion media Vogue Business, that from a niche hobby to a fashionable trend, the popularization of hanfu was mainly driven by internet-savvy young people who often share their hobbies with others.
A report joint released by Shanghai-based business media Yicai and T-mall showed that in 2019, post-1995 female consumers were the main consumption group of hanfu, taking up around 80 percent of the total consumers.
热门古风影视的热播也在加速汉服经济快速增长。
Hit Chinese period dramas on TV have also accelerated the development of hanfu-related business. In addition, key opinion leaders’ recreations to movie characters wearing hanfu draws millions of online audience members into the sector.
汉服的领型最典型的是“交领右衽”(collars diagonally cross each other, with the left crossing over the right),就是衣领直接与衣襟相连,衣襟在胸前相交叉,左侧的衣襟压住右侧的衣襟。
▌宽衣广袖
汉服衣衫阔大,以带轻缚。舒适性与随意性是汉服文化的一种缩影。袖宽且长(long and loose sleeves)是汉服中礼服袖型的一个显著特点。除了唐以后在常服中有敞口的小袖(stitched sleeves)外,汉服袖的主流依然是圆袂收祛。
▌系带隐扣
汉服一般用束带系扎(belts and sashes are used to close, secure, and fit the garments around the waist),少用扣子,即使用扣子,也不显露在外(buttons are sparingly used and concealed inside the garment)。明代后期较多于显眼处使用纽扣。满清服饰以布制盘扣为主,极为显眼(buttons are prominently displayed)。